Joyce woke me up when she was leaving early in the morning to say goodbye and I guess she wasnt shy as I was sleeping only in my underwear as it was so humid.
Next thing I know when I wake up it is around 10.30 and I decide to get a shower and get up.
I wake up Jake around 11.45 so that we could start activate ourselves for the day as I wanted to see a bit of Dar es Salaam on the only day we would be there as we would have to head to the airport the next morning to catch our flight to Kilimanjaro.
We both felt that we needed a shave pretty bad so we went to the local barber that we had seen the previously day when we had been driving by.
For a 1000 shillings (0.5 Euro) we got a nice shave with a machine, not with blade as I had expected but it didn’t matter as it didn’t itch anymore.
Usually for us men when our beard grow it itches like feek in the beginning until it has grown enough length so that it doesn’t bother us anymore.

Getting my hair trimmed

Getting my hair trimmed

After the shave we decided to employe the local economy and took a tuk-tuk into the city center.
The traffic on the Sunday seemed to be a bit lighter and 25 minutes later we arrived at the port where we suddenly got horded by a group of men who all tried to get us on the ferry to Zanzibar or to book a safari with them.
And when it comes to these “fly-catchers” as they are called here they don’t simply take “no” or a “No thank you” as an answer but keeps following you trying to strike up a conversation with the regular “Where are you from?” and “Oh, its my favourite country!” and similar to try to build a connection.
I find them kind of annoying but Jake talked a bit to one that was following us for a couple of minutes before we managed to get rid of him so we could stop and navigate where we were in the city.
As we navigated us to where we wanted to be my eyes caught this amazing saying that was written on the wall to one of the churches.

tanzania dar es salaam quote travel

Can you think of a better saying?

We didn’t come far before another guy started talking to us and this guy was an artist and wanted us to come and see his art.
A very similar approach as I had encountered in Senegal where everyone seemed to be an artist just because they either couldn´t or didn´t want to get a regular job
We kindly refused his offer with different excuses and this is when it took a new turn. When the guy realized that we would not look at his art he tried to sell us marijuana instead.
This happened to us several times later as well where a person came up to us and presented himself as an artist just to offer us to buy marijuana when we didn’t wanna look at his art.
Now it makes me wonder, are they artists with talent or do they just use the marijuana as a enhancing talent?
Remember that many of the worlds best rock songs were written on marijuana.

The weather was hot, around +32 and extremely humid and when Jake got his eyes on an ice cream truck he went for an ice cream. Now as we are in Africa this is not the normal ice cream truck as we imagine it when we hear the word but instead this is a bicycle with a front wagon for ice cream and also they have a silly little speaker playing the most horrible song to announce that the ice cream bike is here.

ice cream cycle tanzania

Ice cream bike in Dar

He went for some strange creation that looked like an ice cream but was a more of a watery coffee/toffee flavored ice cube in my opinion but Jake enjoyed it so that is what matters. I just tasted it.

As we wandered around the deserted city we decided that it was around time to have something to eat so we started to scout for an open place and we found a place that looked local and you can easily say that it was.
I’m curious if they have ever had any muzungu guests there as everyone was watching us as we went n and sat down by a plastic table in the middle of a roofed little hut. Muzungu is the word Tanzanians use for white people and it means “Traveller” more then it means White devil.
The “kitchen” was something like two cooking plates behind a few sheets of metal in the open. A guy was sitting behind it shredding carrots while another guys job was to peel potatoes with a knife and then cut them into fries.
We ordered fries with egg and some meat and two big bottles of water.
The water was so cold, almost frozen when we got the bottles that I drank half of it directly.
As we were sitting and waiting for the food all people who entered the backyard of the shed where we were sitting, stopped and paused for a few moments when they realized that there were two muzungu´s sitting there.

Street food in dar es salaam tanzania

Not a very fancy dinning place

We finally got the food and it was a lot of food.
Fries and egg mixed together into an omelette and four sticks with four bits of grilled meat on.
The meat could easily have won the award of the chewiest meat on the planet but we didn’t let that stop us from enjoying all the fresh vegetables and food that we were indulging in the middle of nowhere in the back of a shed on an empty street in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.

After the food we headed down to the fish market to have a look and smell and yes you can imagine how a whole area dealing in fish smells on a day with +32 degrees.
It smells like a fish market.
Walked around and made sure that we didn’t step into any water as we walked along the market just to make sure that we would get the stench incorporated in our shoes for the rest of the trip.
I saw the local boats lying around the shore and decided to walk down and walk along the beach to see where it would lead.
Didn´t take long before we had three guys walking beside us trying to communicate in Swahili and English
The active person of the gang tried to figure out why we didn’t speak Swahili as he spoke English and this went on for another 30 minutes as we walked along the beach until we got tired of it and decided to head back to our home as I had made an appointment with this guy Charles the previous day.

traditional fishing vessel dar es salaam tanzania

Traditional fishing boat at the beach of Dar

We got a tuk-tuk back to our house and on the way we discussed if we would try to get a tuk-tuk to the airport the following day and decided to do so. The last few meters back to our house I stopped by one of the fruit vendors standing on the side of the dirt road selling pineapples. I bought a big 2 kg pineapple and my jaw dropped when I got told that this big one costed 2000 shillings. What a robbery! It’s outrageous that a huge and juicy pineapple would cost 1 Euro.
I could have bought his whole stand of pineapples right there and then but decided to control myself and as we came back to the house i cut it up and ate probably half of it as it was so amazingly delicious.
It looks like this is turning into a curse as I have problems eating oranges these days after had travelled through western Africa back in 2010/2011 and ate about 1 kg of fresh oranges from Morocco everyday.
After that I always gets disappointed over the taste of the oranges we have in Europe.
Looks like pineapple will go to the same destiny in my fruit book.

After my fruit fest we went to meet the guy Charles but when we got there he wasnt there as agreed but then again we were about 10-15 minutes late.
We bought a soda each as the store didn’t have any beer and decided to wait in case he would show up. The shop assistant told us after a while that Charles had already been there before us and had left his number.
As we didn’t have any phone we convinced her to call him for us and tell him to meet us by a nearby little shack where we went to drink beer and watch the local life pass by on the local dirt road.
A few beers later he shows up in his car and we start talking and as you might understand we are quite curious about this character who had invited us for a local beer.
His name is Charles, he is 32 years young and is married and have a son who is 13. He has also adopted his wifes sisters daughter and her kid so in fact he is a grandfather already.
32 and a grandfather? that is amazing and we spinned away on that thought and calculated that by 55 he would be a great-grandfather if the population in his family continues the same way as up to now.
He had his own company where as he is also studying into become a lawyer.
After 2 beers each, Charles had invited us to try the local BBQ specialities as lamb which is typical for his tribe Chagga.

I questioned if he should be driving after have drinking beer but he said it was no problem at all. So we entered his car and he first drives us to the place where you can get the best pork BBQ.
We eat and drink beer and continues our conversation about life in Tanzania and life style and differences between Europe and Africa.
When we are almost full we enter the car again and he takes us to his relatives store where his wife and brothers are so we get to meet almost the whole family and talk a little with them before we are off again to next place where the should have this special BBQ lamb.

soup of sheep head in tanzania

The sheep head is boiling

Unfortunately they are out of it so Charles takes us to the third place where he also shows us sheep head soup which is supposed to be very good for hangovers.
I honestly say that I would prefer the Bulgarian Shkembe (tripe soup) then the Tanzanian sheep head soup to cure the hangover.
Once again we get a big plate of BBQ but this time of lamb and we eat and we wash it down with more beer as we talk about everything again.
Charles insist on paying for everything which we feel a bit bad about but as we continue talking he tells us about his house that he is building and the land he bought to be able to build the house.
Let me put it this way.
I will never be able to do this construction with the money he is putting down on it that he has saved for 10 years.
I don’t believe any normal European citizen with the average salary would be able to save THAT kind of money in 10 years.

typical bbq grill in dar es salaam

Meat mania

After being totally full and the head is buzzing enough from all the beers we have consumed during the whole evening we enter the car again and Charles is in a really good mood smiling, laughing.
As we pull off Charles tells us that he has only drunk 12 beers during the day and he decide that he wants to show us downtown Dar es Salaam and starts speeding down the motorway faster than I have ever gone in a car in Tanzania.
I’m sitting in the backseat and is gripping hold of the door handle as I feel the warm wind in my face from the side window realizing that I am a little bit intoxicated.
I’m thinking that this is a really stupid situation  but decides to go with the flow as I would at least die happy in a way being where I feel that I in some strange way belong.
Charles turns up the volume of the music as the speed increases and the 8km into the centers goes very fast and suddenly he has turned into a street and stops by a woman.
Takes a few seconds before I realize that he has stopped to show us the local prostitutes and I start giggling to myself over the bizarre situation.
He drives us a quick round around the center before he heads back out on the motorway back to his relatives store where the rest of the family is sitting and drinking.
Another beer and also some Jack Daniels comes up on the table as we all talk.
I keep to my beer and Jake get acquainted with Jack together with Charles brother.

It is pretty late and I feel that my head and eye-lids are very heavy as Charles drives us home again.
We are still to this day trying to figure out what really happened.
Why did he do this for us?
We hit the bed and fell a sleep pretty quick.

Charles and Me

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